South Africa: The good, the bad & the rugby

Pitched as Rugby’s Greatest Rivalry, a tour of South Africa with a chance to watch the All Blacks was too good for this rugby fan to pass up.

The last time I travelled to South Africa, I was 25 years old and stupid enough to think that travelling from Nairobi, Kenya, to Cape Town, South Africa, on an overland truck was a good idea. The trip was run by a driver/guide, whom we named ‘Dodgy Ron’, in a truck that had a penchant for breaking down and blowing tyres. We slept in tents put up wherever we stopped for the night, usually on the side of the road to save money. The toilet was whatever bush had enough leaves to protect what little dignity we had. Split into groups, we took turns at buying ingredients and cooking dinner on a fire that the fire group had built and kept burning long enough for meal preparation to be finished. At the end of the overland, I spent a month in Cape Town in an 8-bed mixed dorm. Needless to say, I was looking to see South Africa in a little more comfort this time — with a rugby tour as the perfect excuse.

A group of people working together under a vehicle, with only their upper bodies and legs visible, engaged in maintenance or repair activities.
A woman wearing sunglasses smiles while lifting a monkey outdoors, with a vehicle and a natural background.
A group of ten individuals posing together on a sandy beach, with a dog lying on the ground. The people are dressed in casual summer attire, and the background features greenery and a wooden structure.
A group of people in casual clothing gathered around a truck on a dirt road, surrounded by trees. One person is climbing the truck, while others are observing and holding wooden sticks.
A campsite at dusk with four people gathered around a fire, one person stands while others are kneeling near the flames. In the background, several tents are set up against a twilight sky.

We started the tour with a couple of nights in Pretoria, staying at The Maslow, Time Square, to adjust to our new time zone. I had a head start on the rest of the group, who had flown from New Zealand, as I arrived from London with only an hour’s time difference to deal with. I’m not going to lie, the effects of the 11-hour flight still took some time to get over. There was no time to wallow, though; in the best traditions of touring, we were up and at ’em the next day on a guided tour of ‘The Jacaranda City’. The weather gods put on a stunner for our first taste of South Africa, where we saw the Voortrekker Monument, built on a hilltop to commemorate the Voortrekkers (descendants of early Dutch, German, and French settlers in South Africa) who left the Cape Colony in the early 1800s to escape British rule. We stopped for a photo in front of a huge Nelson Mandela statue and visited Freedom Park, home to many monuments, each with a list of names of those killed in conflicts including the South African Wars, World Wars, and the apartheid conflicts. It was interesting to visit the capital city, and the welcome drinks and snacks gave us our first taste of how well the country does food and beverage. See similar half-day city tour – HERE

A view from an angled window showcasing a sunset with vibrant colors, framed by modern architecture, and a glimpse of a cityscape below.
Silhouette of a statue with outstretched arms against a bright sunlight, surrounded by greenery and historical buildings in the background.
A large concrete monument atop a hill, surrounded by green and dry vegetation under a clear blue sky.
Modern hotel room with two beds, a chair, desk, and large window with curtains, featuring stylish decor and wooden flooring.
A large brick wall with a smooth texture, partially reflecting sunlight, adjacent to a tiled surface with water features, under a clear blue sky.

We had two stays in Johannesburg: the first straight after Pretoria, the second as our final stop before flying home. It was during this first stay that we made our way to Ellis Park for one of the Test matches — more on that later. Johannesburg itself was interesting. Is it somewhere I’d go again? Short answer: no. It has an interesting history, a lot of it challenging, which we experienced during a visit to the Apartheid Museum, well worth the confronting nature of it. A visit starts with being issued a ticket assigning you as either black or white; the ticket you receive dictates how you start your museum experience — a stark reminder of how recent the apartheid era actually was. We took a drive into Soweto and stopped at the former home of Nelson Mandela. Soweto (contraction of South Western Townships) started in the early 1900s as a segregated community for black workers. The student uprising in 1976 protesting the compulsory use of Afrikaans as the language in schools resulted in many deaths and brought global attention to the apartheid regime. Today, Soweto is home to over two million people in homes that range from palatial to very basic tin structures. Nelson Mandela lived at 8115 Vilakazi Street from 1946 to 1962, moving in with his first wife, Evelyn, and later sharing the home with his second wife, Winnie.

Interior view showing signs labeled 'White Area', 'Non-European Bar', and 'Non-Whites' in both English and Afrikaans, indicating segregation policies.
Exterior view of the Apartheid Museum's brick wall with the museum's name prominently displayed in bold white letters against the red brick.
A view of a street with a man walking a dog, a car passing by, and a neighborhood in the background with various houses and scattered debris under a clear blue sky.
A stone memorial of Nelson Mandela featuring his smiling portrait and engraved details, set against a red brick wall.
A cozy bed featuring a large white decorative pillow, a textured grey blanket, and a wooden headboard. Next to the bed is a vintage telephone and a display with a plaque.
A group of people standing near a sign welcoming visitors to Soweto, with one woman in the foreground smiling and waving with her hand raised.
A view of a large stadium in the background, surrounded by a residential area with makeshift housing and scattered debris in the foreground under a clear blue sky.
A view of a densely populated informal settlement with makeshift homes, set against a backdrop of clear skies and greenery.
A view of two large, colorful cooling towers featuring murals, one with the text 'Shield' and the other labeled 'Grand-Pa', set against a cloudy sky.
A roadside advertisement for a funeral and tombstone service, displaying contact numbers and an emergency number. The sign emphasizes offering the best funeral cover, located near Irvin Khoza Centre.

The difference between the ‘haves’ and the ‘have-nots’ here is stark. Soweto is covered in rubbish; it’s everywhere, while in suburban Johannesburg there is no rubbish, but every home is its own prison. Each house is surrounded by high walls, topped with spikes or barbed wire, with lines of electric fencing to cap it off. It was rare to see people walking on the streets, and we were constantly told by armed guards at our hotels that it is not safe to even walk a short distance to local restaurants or shops. Once you get to the restaurants or shops, they are usually wonderful, including this feast below at Marble. However, for someone used to life in New Zealand, and having just come from a couple of months of solo travelling in the UK, the sense of not feeling safe wasn’t a pleasant one.

In Johannesburg, we stayed at both the Radisson Blu and the Radisson Red Hotels. Both of which I’d recommend. The Blu was a better hotel with a great breakfast buffet; the Red was a very short walk to a good shopping mall, which had an African market and plenty of food choices.

A security guard with a rifle stands at a gated entrance, partially opening the gate. The background features a secure booth and green traffic cones.
A plate featuring grilled asparagus topped with rolled zucchini filled with cheese, cherry tomatoes, olives, and walnuts, drizzled with balsamic glaze and olive oil.
A close-up of a plate featuring a grilled steak, sliced to show the pink interior, garnished with a sprig of parsley. Accompanied by roasted Brussels sprouts and a sweet sauce.
A small white bowl containing a creamy yellow dessert topped with a crisp caramelized piece and small orange spheres, resting on a wooden table.

On a lighter note, we did learn how to hail a minivan taxi in Soweto — though I’m glad we didn’t have to do it ourselves, as I’m not sure where I would have ended up. An index finger up means you want to go into Johannesburg; the same finger pointed down indicates you just want to go somewhere nearby. Three fingers down indicates a trip to Soweto from the CBD. Other signals include a gun shape, a cutting motion, four fingers, and splayed fingers. Luckily, Uber is widely used, with locals recommending Uber Black as the best and safest option.

My advice always is to travel with a Wise card – you can get a physical card but also add it to your Apple Pay, which I used a lot from my watch. This saved the need for rummaging in a bag or a wallet. You can also create a digital card to add to things like Uber or use for online purchases. This can be deleted if you come across any scam issues without the need to replace your main physical card. Get a Wise card HERE

Keeping connected is important when travelling to use apps like Uber. I used an Airalo e-sim and found it worked well.

A large billboard advertising eWallet services, featuring messaging about payments and WhatsApp usage, above a parking area with several white vans.

From Johannesburg, we headed northwest to Sun City. It might not be everyone’s cup of tea, but it was mine. Sometimes called the Las Vegas of South Africa, the resort was originally built as an independent ‘homeland’ so that things like gambling, illegal in South Africa, could be offered. It has two large hotels (we stayed at The Cascades) and a number of self-catering options for families. There are swimming pools, golf courses, a food court, a shebeen, and the Valley of the Waves, so there’s no excuse to be bored. It’s located on the edge of Pilanesberg National Park, where we did both an afternoon and a morning game drive. Our three nights in Sun City were a chance to relax, not worry about our safety and security, and, most importantly, see some amazing wildlife.

A giraffe walking through dry grassland with sparse bushes in the background.
A rhinoceros standing in a grassy area with sparse vegetation and hills in the background.
A group of four people sitting inside a safari vehicle, enjoying an outdoor adventure. The landscape features golden grass and hills in the background.
A female elephant standing on a road with a baby elephant nearby, set against a backdrop of dry grass and mountains under a clear blue sky.
A group of people enjoying a safari ride in an open vehicle, with two individuals smiling in the foreground, surrounded by others in casual attire.
An open-top safari vehicle parked on a dirt road surrounded by sparse vegetation and hills under a clear blue sky.
A giraffe standing among dry grass and sparse bushes in a natural setting.
A group of people sitting in an open-top vehicle, dressed in warm clothing. The foreground features a woman with glasses and a blue jacket, alongside a man wearing a hooded top. Others can be seen in the background, some with scarves and hats.
A wild elephant standing in a grassy area, with its trunk raised and surrounded by bushes and trees.
View of hot air balloons in the sky over a mountainous landscape during sunrise, seen from inside a vehicle on a rural road.
An elephant walking down a road surrounded by dry grass and hills, viewed from inside a vehicle.
A vibrant beach scene featuring palm trees, sandy shores, and a turquoise lagoon. People are enjoying leisure activities, with some under shade structures and others playing near the water.
View of legs floating in a pool with clear water, surrounded by people enjoying a sunny day.
A hornbill perched on a wooden post, showcasing its distinctive yellow and orange beak, against a clear blue sky and natural landscape.
A pathway leading towards a stone structure flanked by large elephant statues, set against a clear blue sky.
Outdoor viewing area at night with a large screen displaying a sports event, surrounded by trees and illuminated by string lights. Patrons seated at colorful tables enjoying the atmosphere.
View of a swimming pool with a waterfall and palm trees in the background, legs of a person resting in the foreground.
View of a sunset over mountains framed by a large window.
Two rhinoceroses grazing in tall grass with a hilly landscape in the background.

From there, it was on to Cape Town, a proper haul across the country but worth every hour of it. We spent 8 nights here, well short of my previous stay, but this time I only had to share a room and a bathroom with one other person: my husband. The visit didn’t start so well, with an unplanned trip for me to A&E. I can report the clinic was excellent and I received great care. I’m still not sure, though, why in pharmacies in SA you get your medication in a lock box like this to walk with from the dispenser to the checkout.

A person holding a metal shopping basket while walking down the aisle of a retail store, surrounded by shelves stocked with various products.

During our stay, we took a trip up Table Mountain, which I had neglected to do in 1996, even though I was staying almost at its base. Its base is where I’m best, nice and close to sea level. My fear of heights and cable cars made the trip up challenging, but not impossible, thanks to noise-cancelling headphones, really loud music, and keeping my eyes closed. Once at the top, I kept telling my brain I was just on land but with a good view, and the views were outstanding. A beer at a beachside bar in Camps Bay soon melted the trauma away.

We had an insanely good run of weather considering it was winter. Another bluebird day greeted us as we headed to the Cape of Good Hope, sightseeing and spotting more wildlife, including a stop at a penguin colony. It was also during this stay that we caught another of the Tests at Cape Town Stadium — the atmosphere was every bit as good as advertised, more on that below.

A highlight for me was a day trip to the wine regions of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, where we sampled both food and wine until late into the afternoon, visiting three wineries throughout the day. You can book the same wine tour HERE

A modern hotel room featuring two beds with white linens, a colorful wall mural, a desk with a TV, and a lounge chair in a minimalistic design.
A view of a densely populated informal settlement or shantytown, featuring numerous makeshift structures under a colorful sky during sunset.
Scenic view of mountains and coastline with calm water in the foreground under a clear blue sky.
A scenic view of the ocean from a cliff, featuring turquoise waters and rocky coastline under a clear blue sky.
A scenic view of a sandy beach curving along a shoreline with gentle waves, framed by distant hills under a clear blue sky.
An ostrich standing in a grassy field near the ocean, with a hazy background featuring water and distant marine life.
An ostrich walking on a grassy area with large rocks, near a coastline with a calm sea and a clear sky.
A scenic view of a beach with waves gently rolling in, surrounded by rocky formations and a backdrop of mountains. People can be seen enjoying the beach, some taking photos, while houses and palm trees line the shoreline.
A group of penguins standing on a sandy beach, surrounded by rocky formations and ocean waves.
An old wooden structure resembling a bell tower with a nearby clock tower overlooking a bay and mountains in the background.
A cable car with passengers ascends towards rocky terrain under a clear blue sky.
Panoramic view from a mountain overlooking a coastal city, with an island visible in the distance. A sign provides information about the area in the foreground.
A scenic view of a landscape featuring a single tree in the foreground and a distant mountain peak under a cloudy sky.
Staircase with painted distances to various countries in kilometers, including Germany, USA, Turkey, and others.
A group of street performers executing a human pyramid formation in an outdoor shopping area, with a mix of onlookers and cars in the background.
A sunny beach scene with gentle waves, golden sand, and people walking along the shore. In the foreground, there are rocks and green plants beside the sand.
View of the waterfront in Cape Town with Table Mountain in the background, featuring various boats and people walking along the promenade near the Cape Union Mart.
View of Table Mountain in Cape Town against a clear blue sky, with harbor buildings and boats in the foreground.
Two tugboats docked at a harbor under a clear blue sky.
A steel monument featuring a stylized portrait engraved into its surface, with a map of Robben Island visible in the background. A tour guide stands next to the monument, explaining its significance.
A sunny day scene featuring a church with a tall steeple, a large tree casting shadows on the street, and parked vehicles on a quiet road.
A staff member pouring a drink from a bottle into a glass on a wooden cart, with a bouquet of white flowers in a pot nearby. The scene is set outdoors in front of a restaurant under clear blue skies.
A woman with long grey hair and glasses holds up a glass of red wine, smiling at the camera. The setting is a bustling restaurant with a dining setup, featuring other patrons in the background and tables adorned with menus and wine glasses.
A table set up for a wine tasting event, featuring various glasses of wine, water, and tasting notes placed on the table. The table has a black granite surface surrounded by chairs.

On a separate day, I made a solo trip to another winery to catch up with someone I hadn’t seen in decades (just saying that makes me feel very old). Chris and I worked together in the basement (yes, it was actually a basement) of the Royal National Hotel, the hotel in London with the most rooms. The year was 1997, and our job was to deal with weary travellers who had just arrived in London for their Contiki tour. All they wanted to do was check in and go to bed. It was our job to tell them that they couldn’t do that for hours, and often hours and hours. Fun times. My friendship with Chris could be described as unlikely. I was a 26(ish)-year-old Kiwi, while he was a 19-year-old South African, not long having left school. Unlikely though it seemed at face value, we became firm buddies and had lots of fun together in London. I wasn’t sure if the friendship would be the same nearly 30 years later, with plenty of water under both of our life bridges. It filled my cup that we still connected in the same way we did all those years ago, and we spent a lovely few hours catching up.

A man and a woman sitting together on a couch, both holding glasses of red wine, with a bottle of wine on the table and a cozy interior setting.
A man and a woman sitting on a sofa, both holding glasses of wine, smiling at each other. The background features large windows overlooking a green landscape.
A scenic view of Table Mountain framed by a large black sign with the text 'De Grendel' at the top, set in a green landscape.

While in Cape Town, we also spent some time wandering through Bo-Kaap at the V&A Waterfront, which has grown markedly in size since I was last here. The shopping mall was next level, and there were so many options of places to both eat and drink. We opted to head back to the area near our hotel for our last night in the city and went to Mama Africa for a local cuisine experience.

We stayed in both the Canopy by Hilton and the Pullman Cape Town. The Canopy was an exceptional, new hotel with a fantastic restaurant. The only downside was it was a little further away from the action. The Pullman was centrally located for walking to the V & A, Bo-Kaap, and the market. The rooms in both were spacious, and the service was friendly.

Colorful houses with pink, purple, yellow, and green facades along a street on a sunny day.
A vibrant street scene showcasing colorful buildings in shades of pink, green, and yellow, with clouds in the blue sky above. Several cars are parked along the street, and people are walking nearby.
A colorful street view featuring vibrant yellow, orange, and red buildings with clear blue sky and shadows from nearby foliage.
A row of colorful scooters parked in front of a brick wall featuring a barred window and part of a mural.
A live music performance featuring three musicians on stage, with a guitarist in the foreground, a bassist in the center, and a standing vocalist. Colorful flags hang in the background, and ambient lighting adds a vibrant atmosphere. A table with a bottle of wine and decorative elements is visible in the foreground.
A beautifully arranged dinner plate featuring a well-cooked omelette, mashed potatoes with a spoon, flavorful yellow rice, and a bowl of rich meat stew, garnished with fresh herbs, set on a colorful tablecloth.
Mama Africa restaurant menu page featuring various specialty dishes, including Umlawa chicken, Moroccan Lamb Tagine, and Cape Malay chicken curry, with descriptions and prices.

South Africa is a country I’d urge anyone to visit, but plan where you stay and how you will get around. Outside of gated or patrolled areas, be on your guard constantly. Don’t accept any offer of help at ATMs, and it even pays to be cautious of people in uniform who say they are security. Leave everything valuable at home and keep a good hold of your phone. It’s a minefield!

Now, the rugby. South Africa does rugby well. All three stadiums — Ellis Park, Cape Town Stadium, and FNB Stadium in Soweto — were amazing, with fantastic theatre put on surrounding the rugby, the most talked-about being the Cape Town flyover, where two jet planes skimmed the top of the stadium. South African fans are passionate about their team, make eating and drinking in the stadium a whole other sport, and love rugby banter. And they should. Although their team lost the first game, they won the rest of the series and showed why they are currently the world’s best.

A person with long gray hair wearing glasses, a black shirt, and a black skirt stands in front of a mirror, holding a phone to take a selfie.
A vibrant rugby stadium filled with spectators, featuring colorful fireworks in the sky and teams gathering on the field.
A panoramic view of a rugby stadium filled with spectators, featuring a grassy field with large banners and flags, under a cloudy sky.
View of a rugby stadium filled with spectators during a match, featuring a large green field and dramatic sunset sky.
Fireworks and smoke erupt from the roof of a stadium during a rugby match, with fans visible in the stands and a large scoreboard in the background.
Fireworks illuminate the night sky above a packed rugby stadium, with smoke trails and a modern structure visible.
An airplane flying above a stadium with a clear sky and the sun setting in the background.
A unique perspective of a stadium with two airplanes flying overhead against a backdrop of a bright sky and clouds.
A large, modern stadium with a distinctive patterned exterior, surrounded by a grassy area and parked vehicles in the foreground.
A large stadium with a distinctive design, surrounded by a grassy area and several parked buses on the side.
A sports stadium filled with a cheering crowd, featuring a fiery display creating the shape of a 'V' on the field, with performers and staff in the foreground.
A stadium illuminated at night with a crowd of people gathered in the foreground, set against a hazy sky.

Ending with some shameless self-promotion. I’ve got a new book coming out in October. Written while I was travelling in the UK, it’s the fourth book in the Terrific Tours series and is set in Amsterdam.

Learn more here … https://books2read.com/u/4XqqAv

A cup of coffee with a biscuit next to a tablet displaying the book 'The Night Shift' by Gillian Scott, placed on a wooden table with a map and a vintage tape recorder.

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